N52 Engine Swap: Everything You Need

Swapping the N52 in an E90 328i? Here's what to order and what to have on hand before anything comes apart. The steps, one picture each, are on the step-by-step page.

Two ways out

• BMW's way: gearbox out first, then the engine lifts out the top on a crane.
• Shop way, the one this page is set up for: bumper, radiator and front end off, engine out the front on a crane, gearbox stays in the car. Not in BMW's text.
• From below (engine, gearbox and front subframe dropped together on a 2-post lift): a shop way seen on video, not in BMW's text, so no steps from us.

Lines that stay closed

BMW unbolts the A/C compressor and the power steering pump and sets them down on the front subframe, lines still on. So no A/C recharge and no steering bleed (shop experience).

Automatic: BMW raises the engine about 10 cm, then takes off the oil/water heat exchanger pipes together with the exchanger. Seals and torques for this engine: send us your VIN.

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The parts

Aluminium bolts are one-use (BMW). The rest is worth renewing (shop experience). The gaskets and nuts are the same either side of BMW's 03/2009 manifold change.

Worth doing while it's apart (shop experience)

Fluids

Next: the steps →

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Tools

• Engine crane and BMW lifter 11 0 020, hung only from the engine's two mounting eyes (BMW). A load leveler on the same hang points does the job (shop way).
• The car's towing hook, screwed in where BMW's lift figure shows it. About 30 Nm (BMW's engine support job).
• Torque wrench and an angle gauge. Every aluminium bolt goes torque plus angle.
• Converter bolt socket 24 1 110 (BMW). Turn the engine by the crank pulley, in its running direction, until a bolt shows in the opening, then the next.
• A jack and strap under the gearbox before the last engine bolt comes out, so it can't drop (shop way; BMW supports it the same way in its gearbox job).
• A magnet: aluminium bolts aren't magnetic, steel ones are (BMW). That's how you tell them apart.
• Drain pans for 6.5 L of oil and 8.4 L of coolant.

The torque converter stays on the gearbox. Keep it from sliding off as the engine comes away (shop way; BMW's holding tool 24 4 161 with 24 4 160 is in its gearbox job). BMW: if the converter isn't seated, the pump impeller driver can be damaged when engine and gearbox bolt together.

Check the gearbox bolt threads before you undo them. BMW: rust or damage on the threads can cause heavy damage to the engine block. Clean them first, and replace rusty or damaged bolts.

Torque

Engine to gearbox, aluminium (new)Both gearboxes: M10x30 20 Nm, then 90 to 110°. M12 25 Nm, then 130°.
6HP only: long M10x85 20 Nm, then 180 to 200°.

Engine to gearbox, steel TorxBoth gearboxes: M8 19 Nm. M12 66 Nm.

Torque converter to drive plateBoth gearboxes: 56 Nm (10.9 bolts).

Drive plate to crank (new bolts)30 Nm, then 125 Nm. BMW locks the plate with tool 11 9 260.

Support arms to engine, aluminium (new)25 Nm, then 105°.

A/C compressor, aluminium (new)Long M8: 10 Nm, then 180° ±15. Short M8: 10 Nm, then 90° ±15.

Steering pump, aluminium (new)Front screws, then the side screw, 2 Nm each. Then 20 Nm plus 90°, front first.

Exhaust manifold to head20 Nm.

Gearbox mountMount to gearbox and cross member 19 Nm.

Engine mount to front subframeM8 10.9 bolts: 28 Nm.

Engine mount to support armM10 nuts (new, self-locking): 56 Nm.

Flex disc to gearbox (new bolts and nuts)55 Nm, then 90°. BMW: tighten on the bolt, not the nut.

Gearbox bearing to gearboxBMW's tables disagree for this car. Send us your VIN.

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Parts, fill quantities, torque and the BMW route come from BMW's parts catalog and BMW's repair instructions and torque tables for the N52 and both automatics. The shop way is labeled as such. Check yours by VIN.